Lyocell

What is Lyocell?

Lyocell is a type of semi-synthetic fiber that’s become popular in textiles thanks to its eco-friendly reputation and usefulness in many products. It starts as wood pulp and is turned into fiber through a special chemical process. You can find lyocell in everything from clothing to products used in industry.

Lyocell stands out from other similar fibers like traditional rayon because it avoids using harmful chemicals, such as carbon disulfide, which can be dangerous for both workers and nature. This safer process makes lyocell a more environmentally friendly choice in textiles.

Key Features of Lyocell

• Breathable and comfortable: Lyocell keeps you cool and comfortable, making it good for warm weather and active use.
• Soft and lightweight: Many people say lyocell feels softer and lighter than cotton, with a smooth, silk-like touch and a slight shine.
• Durable even when wet: It’s strong and doesn’t lose strength when it gets wet, which is not always the case for other plant-based fibers.
• Hypoallergenic and clean: Lyocell is less likely to cause allergies and naturally resists bacteria, meaning clothes don’t smell as quickly and can be washed less often.
• Dyes easily: It soaks up color well and usually needs less dye than cotton to look bright and rich.

Names and Similar Fibers

While “lyocell” is the general name, you’ll see it sold under names like Tencel™ (by Lenzing AG), Excel (Aditya Birla Group), Newcell, Seacell, and just “Lyocell” by some companies. All these are made the same basic way-what sets lyocell apart from other rayon fabrics is its safer manufacturing process. Rayon was the first widely made plant-based fabric, invented as a silk alternative. Lyocell is a step forward, with less waste and a more efficient process.

How is Lyocell Made?

Making lyocell starts with wood and ends with a practical fiber, while using methods that are better for the environment. The system for making lyocell is called “closed-loop” because almost everything used can be used again and again, creating less waste and pollution.

Raw Materials and Chemicals Used

• Wood source: Eucalyptus is most common because it grows fast, doesn’t need much water or pesticides, and grows on land that isn’t good for farming. Oak, bamboo, and birch also work.
• Preparation: Trees are turned into small chips, then treated with chemicals to take out the unwanted parts until just cellulose is left.
• Key solvent: N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) dissolves the cellulose so it can be spun into fiber, but doesn’t change the structure permanently and is reused.

Closed-Loop Production Steps

1. Pulp sheets are cut into small pieces.
2. These pieces are mixed with NMMO till they dissolve into a thick liquid (“dope”).
3. This liquid passes through tiny holes in a spinneret, forming long strings of fiber.
4. These new fibers are stretched, then set in a water bath to make them solid.
5. Almost all the water and solvent are collected and reused for the next batch.
6. The fibers are washed, dried, and sometimes coated with something slippery so they can be made into fabric.

This process can take as little as two to two-and-a-half hours, which is quicker than many other fiber-making techniques.

Types of Lyocell Fibers

• Staple fibers: Short fibers used in casual clothes, jeans, underwear, and towels.
• Filament fibers: Long, smooth fibers often found in fine clothes like blouses or fancy shirts.
• Different textures: Processing can give lyocell a suede-like or silky feel, and it’s often mixed with things like cotton, polyester, or wool for extra strength and less wear.

Lyocell’s Environmental Impact

Lyocell is regularly called one of the best “green” fibers you can buy. However, it’s helpful to look at all sides to get a clearer understanding.

Is Lyocell Sustainable?

• Resource use: Lyocell is made from wood pulp, a resource that is renewable and usually comes from forests managed responsibly (such as those certified by the Forest Stewardship Council-FSC).
• Efficient production: The closed-loop system for recycling water and NMMO means almost no waste or chemicals go into the environment.
• Lower impacts: Lyocell production uses less water and energy than conventional cotton, and much cleaner chemicals than viscose rayon.

Biodegradability

Lyocell is fully biodegradable if it’s 100% lyocell (without synthetic blends) and will break down in a couple of months under the right conditions-unlike plastics, which last for centuries. This helps keep waste out of landfills.

Certifications

• Look for eco-labels and certifications (like FSC or EU awards) that confirm the raw materials and production process are responsible and safe.
• Brands such as Lenzing (maker of Tencel™) often mention these certificates on their products for extra transparency.

“Greenwashing” Cautions

• Some labels claim their products are “eco-friendly” just because a small amount of lyocell is included. If the rest is from non-sustainable or synthetic sources, the environmental benefit is small.
• Real sustainability depends on how the fibers are sourced, how the energy is generated for manufacturing, and if workers are treated fairly.

Properties of Lyocell Fabric

Lyocell has a combination of qualities that make it useful, comfortable, and practical.

How is Lyocell Used?

Lyocell’s mix of comfort, performance, and easy care means it’s used in many different areas.

In Fashion and Clothing

• Used in dresses, shirts, t-shirts, jeans, chinos, and sportswear.
• Works well for underwear and sleepwear because it’s soft and clean-great for people with sensitive skin.
• Major brands like H&M, Zara, Patagonia, and others use lyocell in their collections.

Home Textiles

• Bedsheets, pillowcases, and duvets made with lyocell feel cool and smooth, making them popular for bedding.
• Lyocell towels absorb water quickly and dry fast, staying fresh longer than some cotton towels. Brands like Ettitude and Under the Canopy carry lyocell home products.

Industrial and Specialty Products

• Used in conveyor belts and specialty papers because it’s strong and wears out slowly.
• Medical dressings also use lyocell because it absorbs well and keeps wounds clean.
• Ongoing research is finding new uses for lyocell, especially where strong, absorbent, plant-based materials are needed.

Lyocell: Pros and Cons

Strengths

• Sustainability: Made efficiently, with little waste and renewable resources. Closed-loop system cuts pollution.
• Softness and comfort: Smooth, breathable, and feels good on the skin.
• High strength: Stays tough through many wears and washes (even wet).
• Resistant to wrinkling and shrinking, so clothes look fresh longer.
• Good value: May last longer than cotton or cheaper fabrics, balancing the higher cost over time.

Weaknesses

• Price: More expensive to make than polyester or regular cotton-products usually cost more upfront.
• Care: High heat can damage lyocell, so it needs gentle washing with cold water, and air drying is best. Strong chemicals or bleach can hurt the fibers.
• Not waterproof: Lyocell absorbs water easily, which means it’s not suitable for waterproof clothing unless specially treated or blended with something else.

Comparison with Other Fabrics

How to Care for Lyocell

To keep lyocell looking and feeling good for a long time, handle it carefully. Here’s how:

Washing and Drying

• Wash by hand in cold water with mild soap for best results, especially if it’s 100% lyocell.
• If using a washing machine, choose a gentle setting and put garments in a mesh bag.
• Never use bleach or harsh stain removers, as they can harm the fabric.
• Don’t wring out lyocell-press it gently to get out water.
• Dry by hanging or laying flat away from direct sunlight. Avoid hot tumble drying.
• Some shrinkage (3-5%) might happen after the first few washes, but cold water and air drying help fabric keep its size.

Ironing and Extra Tips

• Iron if needed on low heat with no steam, or use a pressing cloth to avoid direct contact.
• Steaming clothes instead of ironing can also help remove wrinkles.
• Store lyocell items in a cool, dry place. Avoid airtight plastic bags.

How to Avoid Shrinking and Damage

• Always use cold water when washing lyocell.
• Gentle handling-no wringing, twisting, or harsh scrubbing of wet lyocell.
• Avoid bleach and strong stain removers. If needed, use baking soda or vinegar for stains.
• If the fabric feels stiff after drying, a short, low-heat tumble in the dryer with a towel may soften it (don’t overdo it).
• Read and follow care labels on each item.

What Does Lyocell Cost?

The cost of lyocell is usually higher because of the special technology and careful steps needed to make it.

What Affects Lyocell Prices?

• Production costs: Machines and systems for the closed-loop process are more expensive to buy and run.
• Source material: Wood from certified forests may cost more.
• Blend or pure: 100% lyocell clothing costs more than blended fabrics.
• Brand: Well-known or eco-friendly brands may charge a bit more, especially for items with certifications.

Comparing Prices to Other Fabrics

• Lyocell usually costs more than regular cotton or polyester because of production and raw materials.
• It’s often less expensive than silk, while still feeling just as soft and smooth.
• Even though the initial price is higher, lyocell can last longer, so the “cost per use” over time might make it a good buy-something valued by people who prefer longer-lasting clothes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is lyocell a natural or synthetic fiber?

Lyocell is considered semi-synthetic. It starts as natural wood (like eucalyptus or birch), but is made into fiber through a chemical process. The chemicals don’t permanently change the plant base, and almost everything used is recycled, so it sits between purely natural (like cotton) and purely synthetic (like polyester).

Is lyocell stretchy?

Lyocell does have some stretch and flexibility, but it’s not as elastic as fabrics with spandex. This natural stretch helps lyocell fabric move with you and feel comfortable, which is why it’s good for clothes that need a bit of give.

Is lyocell waterproof?

No, lyocell is not waterproof. It soaks up water very well, meaning it will get wet in rain or spill situations. Special finishes or blending with waterproof fibers are needed to make it repel water, but lyocell on its own is absorbent, not water-resistant.